Look out for signs that your seedlings need extra help! Remember to keep the soil moist around newly transplanted seedlings while they establish. Pinch off competing seedlings or remove them gently to multiply the number of plants. Plant a single seedling per location in the garden. Try not to lose too much soil from the original container. Push from the bottom of each cell to loosen the plant before pulling it out. A larger one is used from transplanting out into your garden. A small dibbler is used for transplanting small plants. Remove each plant from its container gently. Make planting easier by using a dibbler to make a hold digging easier. Your soil is prepped now! Remember to water the seedlings in after their initial planting. Too wet, and it sticks together and releases too much water when squeezed. If the soil is too dry, it won't hold together at all. The soil should be moist enough that it holds together when squeezed but also palls apart easily afterward. This method preps the soil for plant growth. Moisture - Water the space you are planting in (after applying fertilizers) before you place your seedlings in the ground. The best option is to put transplants in the evening after the heat of the day has died down. Plant in the early morning to give your plants time to adjust before the afternoon. The top priority here is avoiding placing seed starts in the midday heat and sunshine. Time - There are a handful of great options for what time of day seedlings should be transplanted. Avoiding this quick fix could result in stunted plants. They will expand slightly and have a time buffer before full transplanting. If timing is off and the temperatures outside aren't cooperating, unpot seedlings from their cells to a slightly bigger container. Avoid letting the ready to transplant seedlings outgrow their trays for too long. Your seedlings are ready to transplant once the true leaves have formed. The true leaves are responsible for supplying vital nutrients for plant growth to the seedling through photosynthesis. They will look like a miniature version of the leaves you'll expect to see once the plant is fully grown. The second group of leaves to show are called the "true" leaves. Those are the leaves waiting inside each seed. The first leaves from the sprouts are called "cotyledons" or seedling leaves. It's time to transplant seedlings once they outgrow their original seed starting container. Tip: for a refresher and a schedule for hardening off your seedlings, click here. The process of planting out your seedlings can be the final buffer between your plants and transplant shock! The tips below will allow your plants to thrive right from the beginning of their time in the garden. But it's such a pain carrying a big stack of plants in and out and in and out and.Your seeds are started and seedlings perfectly hardened off, all ready for their new home outside. THE CHALLENGE: Who honestly has time to mess with this? I'm sure some of us do. Do this for a few days and continue to slowly increase the time they are exposed to full sunlight until they are "hardened off" (capable of sitting in the sun all day long). Then the next day, put them out for 2 hours. Put them outside for an hour and then bring them back in. TRADITIONALLY: To harden off your seedlings you need to slowly introduce them to outdoor light levels. So you better follow this advice.unless you've been able to figure out some workarounds. Without the opportunity to adjust first, they'll get sunburn and might even die. "You Must Harden Off Your Seedlings" If you don't harden off your indoor seedlings before planting them outside, they will suffer shock from the brutal sun. How to Harden Off Seedlings or Should You?
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